Huangshan Mountain — Ancient attraction gets slice of American pizza pie

There is an old saying that, "after visiting Huangshan, you don't need to visit any other mountains in China". Huangshan Mountain in East China's Anhui province is a national treasure and a wonder of the world, as well as a symbol of the province.

This year, Huangshan garnered even more attention with the reopening of Tiandu Peak in May after a five-year closure to protect its local ecology and natural resources.

Tiandu Peak is one of Huangshan's three major peaks. Towering 1,829 meters above sea level, it draws huge crowds to its precipitous terrain and breathtaking scenery. In particular, the route dubbed "fish back ridge" features a near-vertical 85-degree slope over 10 meters long but less than 1 meter wide, protected only by railings and rope.

Located miles from the Huangshan Mountain and near Huangshan North Railway Station, the thousand-year-old village of Nanxinan in Huangshan city seems an unlikely setting for one of China's pizza innovators. However, in this ancient Anhui hamlet steeped in ancient tradition, a foreigner has fused East and West in an aromatic, unlikely creation — the "Chou Guiyu" (stinky mandarin fish) pizza.

In this area, where traditions like preserving food have endured for centuries, American Adrien Brill is forging paths toward new ones while preserving its flavors.

Brill, who has called China home for 15 years, did not intend to reinvent any dishes when he moved to his wife's hometown of Huangshan seven years ago.

However, Brill was invited to participate in a cooking competition as an amateur home chef, which features the local famous preserved fish dish.

"I was shocked and nervous since I'm not a professional chef," Brill recalls with a chuckle. "But I was already falling in love with making pizza, so we thought why not try putting Chou Guiyu on it? It represents the Western culture of pizza but also the local flavors I've grown to love here."

Adrien Brill's unique "Chou Guiyu" (stinky mandarin fish) pizza at his restaurant. [Photo provided to China Daily]

While the idea seemed weird, the taste proved to be a unique, delicious cultural intersection and has become the signature dish at Brill's restaurant named after his Chinese moniker Zhuowen.

"At first, people think it's weird, but once they try it, they're always surprised by how good it tastes," Brill says. "It's not overpowering or too salty or stinky. The flavors work together seamlessly."

With the help of his wife who was born and raised in Huangshan, he has experimented with other local ingredients like the funky aged "hairy tofu" or mao doufu. Seasonal specials have featured pumpkin, mushrooms and sausage inspired by the fall harvest festival of shai qiu, when villagers preserve crops for winter.

While sitting in the rustic countryside of Nanxinan, Brill remains energized by the warmth and support from locals like his neighbor Lao Wu (one surnamed Wu). On his first day renovating the restaurant space years ago, Wu insisted Brill join his family for a home-cooked lunch.

"The environment here is incredibly healthy, peaceful and welcoming," reflects Brill. "Wu and other locals constantly make you feel loved with smiles, warmth and help like I'm part of one big family."

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